Very infrequent PCS computer boot problem

films&games

Enthusiast
Hi,

I used the Windows 10 media creation tool to download and make a bootable USB stick of Windows 10.

I made a full backup using Macrium Reflect free first before I ran the Window 10 setup and deleted the existing partition(s) on my M.2 Corsair MP600 SSD.

When I ran the setup from the USB stick, I deleted all of the partition(s) on the SSD and installed to the unallocated space.

I then waited for the installation to complete. When I looked at the screen, it was blank and then “No signal detected” error message.

I had to reset the PC by using the reset button. The PC booted from the SSD and allowed me to go through and complete the installation process by selecting my region, etc.

I went through the install again from scratch to try to replicate the problem, but the inital setup restarted the PC normally and the screen remained on and there was no lose of signal this time.

I have my PC back up and running now. But I have not actually looked at the graphics card itself yet. I have installed the latest Nvidia drivers and it seems okay.

When I initially installed a few programs from my D drive to my C SSD, I had a few problems with permissions, e.g. I was unable to delete or copy certain files. When I restarted my PC this was gone and it has been okay since.

When I initially started Windows 10 for the first time, I was prompted to download and install “Armoury Crate”. Should I install this?

Does this now seem like a hardware problem with the graphics card itself or have I also got a glitchy Windows installation too?

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated, please.

Thank you.
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
Hi,

I used the Windows 10 media creation tool to download and make a bootable USB stick of Windows 10.

I made a full backup using Macrium Reflect free first before I ran the Window 10 setup and deleted the existing partition(s) on my M.2 Corsair MP600 SSD.

When I ran the setup from the USB stick, I deleted all of the partition(s) on the SSD and installed to the unallocated space.

I then waited for the installation to complete. When I looked at the screen, it was blank and then “No signal detected” error message.

I had to reset the PC by using the reset button. The PC booted from the SSD and allowed me to go through and complete the installation process by selecting my region, etc.

I went through the install again from scratch to try to replicate the problem, but the inital setup restarted the PC normally and the screen remained on and there was no lose of signal this time.

I have my PC back up and running now. But I have not actually looked at the graphics card itself yet. I have installed the latest Nvidia drivers and it seems okay.

When I initially installed a few programs from my D drive to my C SSD, I had a few problems with permissions, e.g. I was unable to delete or copy certain files. When I restarted my PC this was gone and it has been okay since.

When I initially started Windows 10 for the first time, I was prompted to download and install “Armoury Crate”. Should I install this?

Does this now seem like a hardware problem with the graphics card itself or have I also got a glitchy Windows installation too?

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated, please.

Thank you.
I wouldn't feel confident about the stability of that system given the problems you've had reinstalling. It seems to me as though there is some sort of hardware problem there.

I would call PCS, point them to this thread, and talk about an RMA for them to check it over.
 

films&games

Enthusiast
Hi,

Earlier today I rang PCS and was on hold for about 10 minutes and still number 20 in the queue.

I will ring them again tomorrow. I know that they are closed on Sunday.

I checked the cables: mains power from monitor to wall socket, the DP cable at both ends; between the monitor and graphics card.

After this I decided to download the media creation tool again and created a fresh Windows 10 image on a bootable USB stick.

I ran the Windows 10 setup again, booting from the USB stick when the PC boots by pressing F8.

I deleted all of the partition(s) again on the M2 SSD and installed Windows 10 on the unallocated space. This completed without a single glitch or problem.

I installed the latest Nvidia graphics card drivers and they installed without a problem.

I copied files from my drive D HDD and installed a few programs too and there were no errors, e.g. file permissions. All problems installed first time without any errors to my drive C M.2 SSD.

I have ran Windows Update, all updates are installed.

The 4 on-board Q-LEDs at the boot cycle light up in sequence from bottom to top and white has stayed on during one boot up along with 1 long + 3 short beeps and not since.

Below are two links to photos of my PC showing the white Q-LED lit up on the motherboard.

 
Last edited:

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
Hi,

Earlier today I rang PCS and was on hold for about 10 minutes and still number 20 in the queue.

I will ring them again tomorrow. I know that they are closed on Sunday.

I checked the cables: mains power from monitor to wall socket, the DP cable at both ends; between the monitor and graphics card.

After this I decided to download the media creation tool again and created a fresh Windows 10 image on a bootable USB stick.

I ran the Windows 10 setup again, booting from the USB stick when the PC boots by pressing F8.

I deleted all of the partition(s) again on the M2 SSD and installed Windows 10 on the unallocated space. This completed without a single glitch or problem.

I installed the latest Nvidia graphics card drivers and they installed without a problem.

I copied files from my drive D HDD and installed a few programs too and there were no errors, e.g. file permissions. All problems installed first time without any errors to my drive C M.2 SSD.

I have ran Windows Update, all updates are installed.

The 4 on-board Q-LEDs at the boot cycle light up in sequence from bottom to top and white has stayed on during one boot up along with 1 long + 3 short beeps and not since.

Below are two links to photos of my PC showing the white Q-LED lit up on the motherboard.

I appreciate that it's hard to get hold of PCS at present but it's clear now I think that there is some sort of hardware issue there and most likely with the graphics card. The white VGA LED staying lit is one clear indication and the 1 long, 3 short POST beeps you've had (at least once) is another.

When you do get to talk to PCS (and point them to this thread) I would ask whether they will do a graphics card swap at first (shipping you a replacement and you send the one you have back at the same time)? That may well avoid the RMA that neither you nor PCS want.

It's definitely not right though and I wouldn't leave it as it is, no matter how much it seems to mostly work.
 

films&games

Enthusiast
Hi,

Sorry for not giving an update sooner. On Monday I sent an email to PCS: explaining the problem, pointed them to this forum thread, and asked them if a replacement graphics card could be sent to me and If I could send my one back in advance before I rang them.

When I rang them later the same day, it was very busy, but it was worth the wait. When I got through to speak to them, I explained the problem again, and stated that I had also sent them an email too.

It was booked in as a faulty GPU and I was told that a replacement GPU would be dispatched on Tuesday (yesterday) and be delivered today.

Earlier today a DPD delivery driver delivered my replacement GPU, which was just the GPU itself in an anti static bag, along with a Gigabyte branded box containing the Gigabyte software disc and quick start guide. Then my faulty GPU was placed in a pink container which was closed and sealed with cable ties.

My existing GPU was a Zotac Gaming Geforce RTX 2070 Super.

My replacement GPU is a Gigabyte Geforce RTX 2070 Super.

My replacement GPU is now installed in my PC and my PC is back up and running.

After this, I emailed PCS to say thank you to them for their prompt customer support.

Thank you for all of your advice @ubuysa @Nursemorph @Scott @SpyderTracks 👍😎😊

The top photo shows my orginal GPU and bottom one shows my replacement GPU.

 
Last edited:

films&games

Enthusiast
Hi,

The Gigabyte model of GPU that PCS sent me as a replacement is GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD.

I was told at the time both during my phone call with PCS and in a confirmation email that I asked to be sent after I had finished speaking to PCS on the telephone: that my replacement GPU may not be the same as the one originally installed in my machine, but depends on what they have currently in stock.

Is the above standard practice for PCS when sending out a replacement GPU.

But will be the same architecture, i.e. 2070 Super.

I have included a screenshot of the installed Aorus Engine software, showing the fan speed, temperature, etc. The GPU Voltage is showing as 0%.


These are the default settings in the Aorus Engine software.


Does everything seem okay?

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated, please.

Thank you.
 

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
Hi,

The Gigabyte model of GPU that PCS sent me as a replacement is GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD.

I was told at the time both during my phone call with PCS and in a confirmation email that I asked to be sent after I had finished speaking to PCS on the telephone: that my replacement GPU may not be the same as the one originally installed in my machine, but depends on what they have currently in stock.

Is the above standard practice for PCS when sending out a replacement GPU.

But will be the same architecture, i.e. 2070 Super.
Yes it is standard practice. See the Terms & Conditions....
7.3 If you order a dedicated graphics card and the AIB (add-in-board) manufacturer name is not specified in the product description or on the final invoice, then you will receive a graphics card that meets the specification of the model/version stated. If the graphics card is exchanged under the warranty, then we will supply a graphics card that meets or exceeds the specification of the model/version stated. This model may be from a different AIB manufacturer and as a result the actual performance may be slightly higher or lower than the original model.
 
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