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Nova 15.6 Overheating CPU
- Thread starter demon28
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cg.stefan.this
Active member
For some reason, I have the feeling that something has gotten worse for me when I'm in performance mode. In idle, my fans keeps ramping up and down even without any tasks running and normal temps in Ryzen Master around 55C. Setting up the maximum processing state at 99% doesnt seem to do any difference anymore :/ I think I will have to consider undevolting but I need a proper tutorial.
My power plan weirdly keeps switching back to balanced on its own so Make sure that this is not happening to you too. Try unistalling CCC and downloading the one from clevos website. They have a newer version available (v2.24)
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Undervolting should only be done as optimisation, not as a way to prevent thermal issues.
If you're facing thermal throttling or high temps, those need to be addressed BEFORE applying an undervolt.
cg.stefan.this
Active member
Well, the problem for me is the fans ramping up and down all the time even when doing nothing (Except in power saving mode)
It seems like the fans curves are based on Tctl which I understand, but it's not suitable for this machine as the Ryzen 3000 are constantly spiking every 2 seconds. The best way would be using the Tdie with a 10 or 15C offset so that the fans can keep cooling properly while being more stable.
May I ask, which cooling pad are you using for your Nova? What kind of temperature improvements have you seen?
Thank you
Hello Guys, I'm new on this forum but I had hundreds of gaming laptops in my hands so for CPU/GPU overheating issues I would recommend the actions to take below :
First I'm not quite sure how does PCS like to change bits around to increase efficiency of the cooling solution so bare in mind you can lose the warranty if you do the following actions (ask PCS about what would void the warranty ) :
Well first in first an inspection is necessary. Why ? To find out is the sudden temp. jumps are related to poor assembly or misshapen heatsink or low mounting pressure etc.
So first disconnect AC and REMOVE BATTERY! If battery is connected you can short out any component on the mobo if you touch them and even experienced people like me touches accidently sometimes components on the mobo.
After remove the bottom case ( it is easy on this "Nova" NH55 Clevo model ) make sure you number the screws and the holes on a paper because their lenght is different !
Check all screws are fully secured and tight ( and check if you can still turn them, you need to apply here some common sense and don't break anything with overtightning, I use torque screw driver to see what torque is required to turn the screws and check the spec of those screws torque values ) Service manuals are available for many clevo models and I hope PCS is not shy to provide them with the laptops as I got the service manuals for my clevo lapopts at the past with all parts schematics and specs for all fixings.
After you checked the screws ( if you found some of them were lose a bit and secured them properly check the system again you might fixed the problem )
2nd step, remove heatsink. Do it in reverse order so whatever is the last number must be the first to undo in removal ( from 1-6, start with 6 and 5 and so on )
Once the heatsink is off check :
-is there any obvious shape issue, if there is well you can report this to PCS or try to fix it by yourself there are many youtube videos how to fix misshaped heatsinks.
-the thermal pads have proper marking from the power delivery system components ( mosfets and Vregs if their cooling is on the CPU heatsink, and it is usually on that ) I mean if you see a proper deep marking in the pad that means it has a good contact and mounting pressure is adequeate. If you see the marking barely that means : First lack of monting pressure, 2nd thermal pads are not thick enough, 3rd misshapen heatsink
Sort out the "mechanical" inspection and issues first I usually do this with every laptop regardless of any cpu overheat because these actions reduces temps always significantly.
If there is no issue with the heatsink ( not misshaped ) do the followings :
First replace all thermal pads for high conductivity pads, I say most laptops comes with some avg product that has around 5-7 W/mK and there are pads on the market with up to 17! W/mK that is almost 3 times better conductivty ! Brands : Fujipoly SARCON XR-m Thermal Pad , Alphacool Eisschicht 17 W/mK Thermal Pad or if you don't want to spend a lot : Gelid Solutions GP-EXTREME–Thermal pad 12W/mK
I use sometimes +0.5mm compare to the recommended thickness because these pads can squeeze easily + 0.5mm result in better contact (they will be squeezed a little bit but that is alright ) however this is not neccesary always, you need to check the original marking in the pads to see how good was the contact.
CPU/GPU thermal and boosting behaviour could improve with having greater cooling over the power delivery system !
2nd replace the thermal paste, pick some none electrical conductive option, I use thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 12.5W/mK but I've seen new brands on the market with higher thermal conductivty ( thermalright TF8 13.8 W/mK) use spatula to spread evenly the paste on the silicon die and don't panic if you use a little bit more, more does not harm but having less paste could be an issue.
3rd I put thin plastic washer on the screws before put them back in the heatsink, this will result increased mounting pressure all accross the heatsink ! Again this needs some common sense to use and you need very thin ( I use 0.5mm and 1mm washers ) Make sure the washer is over the heatsink not under ! There are many youtube videos about this method as well.
4th seal the fans properly ! Very common issue on many laptops the fan can blow out at the bottom, top, and at the sides.... I use capton ( none electrical conductive ) tape around the fan casing connecting the fan with the heatsink so the full air volume must go through the heatsink
just imagine if only 10% of air blows out that is 10% air volume loss .... another impact on temps .... I could not measure volume loss but I've seen 1-2 mm gaps all around between the heatsink and the fan casing so that is a massive space to waste air.
So after these action I would say you should experience minimum of 5 to 10 degrees celsius improvement up to maximum 25-30 celsius degrees, depends on how good was the cooling solution at the beginning.
Pieace
First I'm not quite sure how does PCS like to change bits around to increase efficiency of the cooling solution so bare in mind you can lose the warranty if you do the following actions (ask PCS about what would void the warranty ) :
Well first in first an inspection is necessary. Why ? To find out is the sudden temp. jumps are related to poor assembly or misshapen heatsink or low mounting pressure etc.
So first disconnect AC and REMOVE BATTERY! If battery is connected you can short out any component on the mobo if you touch them and even experienced people like me touches accidently sometimes components on the mobo.
After remove the bottom case ( it is easy on this "Nova" NH55 Clevo model ) make sure you number the screws and the holes on a paper because their lenght is different !
Check all screws are fully secured and tight ( and check if you can still turn them, you need to apply here some common sense and don't break anything with overtightning, I use torque screw driver to see what torque is required to turn the screws and check the spec of those screws torque values ) Service manuals are available for many clevo models and I hope PCS is not shy to provide them with the laptops as I got the service manuals for my clevo lapopts at the past with all parts schematics and specs for all fixings.
After you checked the screws ( if you found some of them were lose a bit and secured them properly check the system again you might fixed the problem )
2nd step, remove heatsink. Do it in reverse order so whatever is the last number must be the first to undo in removal ( from 1-6, start with 6 and 5 and so on )
Once the heatsink is off check :
-is there any obvious shape issue, if there is well you can report this to PCS or try to fix it by yourself there are many youtube videos how to fix misshaped heatsinks.
-the thermal pads have proper marking from the power delivery system components ( mosfets and Vregs if their cooling is on the CPU heatsink, and it is usually on that ) I mean if you see a proper deep marking in the pad that means it has a good contact and mounting pressure is adequeate. If you see the marking barely that means : First lack of monting pressure, 2nd thermal pads are not thick enough, 3rd misshapen heatsink
Sort out the "mechanical" inspection and issues first I usually do this with every laptop regardless of any cpu overheat because these actions reduces temps always significantly.
If there is no issue with the heatsink ( not misshaped ) do the followings :
First replace all thermal pads for high conductivity pads, I say most laptops comes with some avg product that has around 5-7 W/mK and there are pads on the market with up to 17! W/mK that is almost 3 times better conductivty ! Brands : Fujipoly SARCON XR-m Thermal Pad , Alphacool Eisschicht 17 W/mK Thermal Pad or if you don't want to spend a lot : Gelid Solutions GP-EXTREME–Thermal pad 12W/mK
I use sometimes +0.5mm compare to the recommended thickness because these pads can squeeze easily + 0.5mm result in better contact (they will be squeezed a little bit but that is alright ) however this is not neccesary always, you need to check the original marking in the pads to see how good was the contact.
CPU/GPU thermal and boosting behaviour could improve with having greater cooling over the power delivery system !
2nd replace the thermal paste, pick some none electrical conductive option, I use thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 12.5W/mK but I've seen new brands on the market with higher thermal conductivty ( thermalright TF8 13.8 W/mK) use spatula to spread evenly the paste on the silicon die and don't panic if you use a little bit more, more does not harm but having less paste could be an issue.
3rd I put thin plastic washer on the screws before put them back in the heatsink, this will result increased mounting pressure all accross the heatsink ! Again this needs some common sense to use and you need very thin ( I use 0.5mm and 1mm washers ) Make sure the washer is over the heatsink not under ! There are many youtube videos about this method as well.
4th seal the fans properly ! Very common issue on many laptops the fan can blow out at the bottom, top, and at the sides.... I use capton ( none electrical conductive ) tape around the fan casing connecting the fan with the heatsink so the full air volume must go through the heatsink
just imagine if only 10% of air blows out that is 10% air volume loss .... another impact on temps .... I could not measure volume loss but I've seen 1-2 mm gaps all around between the heatsink and the fan casing so that is a massive space to waste air.
So after these action I would say you should experience minimum of 5 to 10 degrees celsius improvement up to maximum 25-30 celsius degrees, depends on how good was the cooling solution at the beginning.
Pieace
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Very very very Imprtant with socket AM4 cpus in laptops ! ( and desktops as well )
Heatsink likes to stuck on the cpu heatspreader ! And because the pins are on the cpu if you rip the cpu out from the socket with the heatsink you can destroy the AM4 socket and bend the pins on the cpu !( this can't happen on intel because the socket has the bracket over the socket and the bracket locks the cpu in the socket )
Always heat up the heatsink ( just run a stress test on the laptop/pc for 5 minutes ) before you try to lift the heatsink !
Before lift try to rotate or slide a little bit the heatsink and don't use excessive force when you are lifting the heatsink !
Heatsink likes to stuck on the cpu heatspreader ! And because the pins are on the cpu if you rip the cpu out from the socket with the heatsink you can destroy the AM4 socket and bend the pins on the cpu !( this can't happen on intel because the socket has the bracket over the socket and the bracket locks the cpu in the socket )
Always heat up the heatsink ( just run a stress test on the laptop/pc for 5 minutes ) before you try to lift the heatsink !
Before lift try to rotate or slide a little bit the heatsink and don't use excessive force when you are lifting the heatsink !
Thanks for the tips! I will repaste the laptop when I get time in the next few weeks and Ill update on the thermal improvements.
Just a quick update about my situation:
I have been playing around with Ryzen master adjusting clocks and voltages. I have been able to clear Cinebench R20 3 times running my 3600 at 3.9Ghz/1.0875V. This gives me a score of around 3300+-. I will keep playing around and see if I can get even better results. Max temperature during full load on Cinebench was 77 and a quick prime95 got me up to a stable 84 degrees with relatively low fan noise. I am running a custom fan profile with my fan set at 50%@80 degrees. I was able to keep the temperatures even lower during prime but with the downside of my laptop sounding like a jet engine. I think those temperatures are pretty good, and I haven't even repasted with Kryonaut yet.
Keeping stock ryzen settings and setting in 99% maximum processor state in the power settings makes my 3600 draw around 1.08V for 3.6Ghz while keeping similar temperatures as my 3.9Ghz profile so my current profile seems more efficient. The only downside is that the processor won't downclock as frequently as it does when I use PBO+99% processor state, which leaves me with pretty much 3.9ghz/1.1v all the time. Maybe I can find a workaround that. Will keep you posted
I have been playing around with Ryzen master adjusting clocks and voltages. I have been able to clear Cinebench R20 3 times running my 3600 at 3.9Ghz/1.0875V. This gives me a score of around 3300+-. I will keep playing around and see if I can get even better results. Max temperature during full load on Cinebench was 77 and a quick prime95 got me up to a stable 84 degrees with relatively low fan noise. I am running a custom fan profile with my fan set at 50%@80 degrees. I was able to keep the temperatures even lower during prime but with the downside of my laptop sounding like a jet engine. I think those temperatures are pretty good, and I haven't even repasted with Kryonaut yet.
Keeping stock ryzen settings and setting in 99% maximum processor state in the power settings makes my 3600 draw around 1.08V for 3.6Ghz while keeping similar temperatures as my 3.9Ghz profile so my current profile seems more efficient. The only downside is that the processor won't downclock as frequently as it does when I use PBO+99% processor state, which leaves me with pretty much 3.9ghz/1.1v all the time. Maybe I can find a workaround that. Will keep you posted
MathewEvan449
Active member
i got my Nova (NH55AF) today. I'm having same overheating and sporadic reset issues. Idle is around 60-70c for me with just chrome open. Installing clevo control centre 2.24 to see if that helps.
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Until windows is fully configured, temps will be high.
MathewEvan449
Active member
Just downloaded Control Centre 2.24 installed that and all issues went away for me. Temp is stable sub 70c while in game. Using performance mode but have set windows cpu settings to 90% max. So far so good.
Edit:
After being turned on all night using 2.24 control centre instead 2.17 control centre. My issues seemed to have stopped and laptop is stable. I still have max cpuusage set to 90% out of personal preference. While playing a game for a hour cpu was stable around 68-72c and GPU at 52-58c. (Game: Starbase).
Model used on clevo site: NH5xAFx (NH55AFW)
URL: https://www.clevo.com.tw/en/e-servi...sp?Lmodel=NH5xACx_AFx_ADx<ype=9&submit=+GO+
Edit:
After being turned on all night using 2.24 control centre instead 2.17 control centre. My issues seemed to have stopped and laptop is stable. I still have max cpuusage set to 90% out of personal preference. While playing a game for a hour cpu was stable around 68-72c and GPU at 52-58c. (Game: Starbase).
Model used on clevo site: NH5xAFx (NH55AFW)
URL: https://www.clevo.com.tw/en/e-servi...sp?Lmodel=NH5xACx_AFx_ADx<ype=9&submit=+GO+
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Had mine for a month have the following observations.
Mounting pressure seems low, and temperatures improve during benchmarks when pressing down on the CPU heatsink so this may need to be addressed by Clevo and pc specialist. Reduces idle temperatures to 45c and load temperatures to 75 ISH in cinebench with default 88w ppt all core mode. Single core boost will always be stupid hot don't worry about it sending 33w through a single core makes it toasty.
Manually setting max all core speed to 3.6 GHz is a great way to lower temperatures set the voltage initially to 1.1v and work down from there you'll be surprised at how low you can set voltage at this speed. If like me you can get to 1.0500 v this is a ppt of around 70 w all core boost which is much more manageable thermals wise. Test stability with a fee cinebench runs if you crash or the scores start to drop your volts are too low.
You'll loose out on single core performance but fans won't be zipping up and down constantly.
If like me you are running the 12 core version you could always consider running as a 10 or 8 core processor when not working on projects.
Also! If you don't have fan control software installed such as control centre or obsidian fan control the processor will thermal shut down, this is a huge problem and needs to be addressed in a bios update. The fans just won't spin up high enough with out it installed.
Obsidian fan control allows you to set linked fan performance i.e fans match speed of the highest temperature device which is super handy. If you have £30 burning a hole in your pocket it's worth it.
Mounting pressure seems low, and temperatures improve during benchmarks when pressing down on the CPU heatsink so this may need to be addressed by Clevo and pc specialist. Reduces idle temperatures to 45c and load temperatures to 75 ISH in cinebench with default 88w ppt all core mode. Single core boost will always be stupid hot don't worry about it sending 33w through a single core makes it toasty.
Manually setting max all core speed to 3.6 GHz is a great way to lower temperatures set the voltage initially to 1.1v and work down from there you'll be surprised at how low you can set voltage at this speed. If like me you can get to 1.0500 v this is a ppt of around 70 w all core boost which is much more manageable thermals wise. Test stability with a fee cinebench runs if you crash or the scores start to drop your volts are too low.
You'll loose out on single core performance but fans won't be zipping up and down constantly.
If like me you are running the 12 core version you could always consider running as a 10 or 8 core processor when not working on projects.
Also! If you don't have fan control software installed such as control centre or obsidian fan control the processor will thermal shut down, this is a huge problem and needs to be addressed in a bios update. The fans just won't spin up high enough with out it installed.
Obsidian fan control allows you to set linked fan performance i.e fans match speed of the highest temperature device which is super handy. If you have £30 burning a hole in your pocket it's worth it.
cg.stefan.this
Active member
I have observed that when I run cinebench20 with default Performance mode @ 88W PPT / 60 TDC / 90 EDC. it drops after a few seconds to 75W PPT / 60 TDC / 50 EDC and all cores are locked at 3,6Ghz. it gives a pretty low CineBench20 score of 4150 pts (3700X model). The temperatures remain in the late 70C which is not too bad but I don't think it should act like this since the boost should operate by default up to 4.4Ghz and therefore should produce more heat.
Apparently, Manual OC with undervolting is the best way to gain performance while loosing heat. I'm experimenting now with 4.00Ghz @ 1.112v, I had 4670 pts on Cinebench20 and max temperatures of 85C. (30C in the room) I'm gonna run a Prime95 to make sure it's stable.
Apparently, Manual OC with undervolting is the best way to gain performance while loosing heat. I'm experimenting now with 4.00Ghz @ 1.112v, I had 4670 pts on Cinebench20 and max temperatures of 85C. (30C in the room) I'm gonna run a Prime95 to make sure it's stable.
If you have control centre installed uninstall it.
Boost behaviour will then function as expected.
Although then you have to buy 3rd party fan control software... Because the fans don't go to kick in hard enough to stop thermal cut out.
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NorthDakota
Bronze Level Poster
Interesting read of all of these.
I had a similar issue with my Nova ended up RMA'ing it due to it peaking at 105 degrees during a fire strike test (max CPU temp is 95). Currently going through inspection hoping to get it back next week. I hope PCS reviews the issues I set out and can resolve it. For me it seems it may be thermal throttling..PCS did indicate over the phone it could be a thermal paste issue or maybe even the CPU.
If I hear anything or when it comes back.to.me I'll run another Firestrike and check HW Monitor for peak temps and let you know
I had a similar issue with my Nova ended up RMA'ing it due to it peaking at 105 degrees during a fire strike test (max CPU temp is 95). Currently going through inspection hoping to get it back next week. I hope PCS reviews the issues I set out and can resolve it. For me it seems it may be thermal throttling..PCS did indicate over the phone it could be a thermal paste issue or maybe even the CPU.
If I hear anything or when it comes back.to.me I'll run another Firestrike and check HW Monitor for peak temps and let you know
Another quick update. I played a bit more with Ryzen Master today. I have been able to further reduce my voltage to 1.0125V for 3.9ghz and have had no crashes after 30 min of prime95 and countless cinebenchr20 runs. My temps during prime were stable at 82-83. My only problem is the fact that the voltage doesnt flanctuate when using manual oc and I am a bit sceptical about keeping a constant voltage running all the time. Btw are we meant to get our chipset drivers directly from AMD or only use the ones from pc specialists?