Major Performance loss

R

RETSION

Member
When I first got my laptop the performance was great getting 100+FPS most games with no stutters at all but now I’m getting 20-30 even after cleaning the system & also a complete erase & restart really unsure what to do as my laptop is not even a year old yet..


As I type this I’m frequent static sound coming from it that I have never heard before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

System Recoil Series 15.6” 240hz
CPU - i7 10875h 2.3, 5.1ghz
Ram - 24Gb
X2 SSD 970
Gpu RTX 2070 Super
 
barlew

barlew

Godlike
RETSION said:
When I first got my laptop the performance was great getting 100+FPS most games with no stutters at all but now I’m getting 20-30 even after cleaning the system & also a complete erase & restart really unsure what to do as my laptop is not even a year old yet..


As I type this I’m frequent static sound coming from it that I have never heard before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

System Recoil Series 15.6” 240hz
CPU - i7 10875h 2.3, 5.1ghz
Ram - 24Gb
X2 SSD 970
Gpu RTX 2070 Super
Click to expand...
Can you post the full system specification from your order page please.
 
R

RETSION

Member
barlew said:
Can you post the full system specification from your order page please.
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4BAA6DC3-FE40-4191-B0C8-516EFF14467C.jpeg
 
ubuysa

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
Did the performance degrade after you added the new RAM? Additional RAM has to be the same speed, the same voltage, AND have the same timings as the existing RAM.

You also say that you have done 'a complete erase & restart'. How did you do that? From where did you source the drivers?

Are you able to record the 'frequent static sound' that you hear coming from it and post it here?

I'm not at all sure which M.2 ports on that chassis support SSD drives? I know on some PCS laptop chassis that not all M.2 ports can take an SSD. Can you photograph where the new SSD is fitted please and post that here? Those who know the chassis better than I can tell you whether that's an SSD port or not.

A useful first test would be to remove your extra RAM and the extra SSD and see whether the original performance returns....
 
R

RETSION

Member
ubuysa said:
Did the performance degrade after you added the new RAM? Additional RAM has to be the same speed, same voltage, AND have the same timings as the existing RAM.

You also say that you have done 'a complete erase & restart'. How did you do that? From where did you source the drivers?

Are you able to record the 'frequent static sound' that you hear coming from it and post it here?
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No exactly the same speed. I started noticing it stuttering and slowing down in January & by erase & restart I mean from with windows settings so I was fresh start how I got it almost apart from the gaming centre that I downloaded again off of my account on PC Specialists & it downloaded windows itself & I don’t believe so but I shall give it a go for you.
 
ubuysa

ubuysa

The BSOD Doctor
RETSION said:
No exactly the same speed.
Click to expand...
The new RAM is not exactly the same speed as the existing? That will be a problem for you right there.

RETSION said:
I started noticing it stuttering and slowing down in January
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Before or after you added RAM and SSD?
RETSION said:
& by erase & restart I mean from with windows settings so I was fresh start
Click to expand...
Windows Reset is not the best way to reinstall when you're having problems because it reuses the same libraries. You need to make a bootable USB stick with the Windows installation files on. The Media Creation Tool will do that for you.

Choose a Custom Install and delete all existing partitions on the system drive, highlight the unallocated space that results and click the Next button, the installer wil create the correct partition structure and install WIndows. After the initial setup is done run WIndows Update repeatedly (even across reboots) until no more updates are found. This will install all drivers for you. You may want to visit the Nvidia website and download and install the very latest driver for your RTX2070 (Windows update doesn't always have the very latest version).
RETSION said:
how I got it almost apart from the gaming centre that I downloaded again off of my account on PC Specialists & it downloaded windows itself & I don’t believe so but I shall give it a go for you.
Click to expand...
Gaming Centre you do need to download and install from your PCS account, Windows Update will not install that.
 
R

RETSION

Member
ubuysa said:
The new RAM is not exactly the same speed as the existing? That will be a problem for you right there.


Before or after you added RAM and SSD?

Windows Reset is not the best way to reinstall when you're having problems because it reuses the same libraries. You need to make a bootable USB stick with the Windows installation files on. The Media Creation Tool will do that for you.

Choose a Custom Install and delete all existing partitions on the system drive, highlight the unallocated space that results and click the Next button, the installer wil create the correct partition structure and install WIndows. After the initial setup is done run WIndows Update repeatedly (even across reboots) until no more updates are found. This will install all drivers for you. You may want to visit the Nvidia website and download and install the very latest driver for your RTX2070 (Windows update doesn't always have the very latest version).

Gaming Centre you do need to download and install from your PCS account, Windows Update will not install that.
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The ram & SSD have been in since September/ October so before, & I don’t have a usb stick to do that so that was my only option I felt at the time so I shall look into getting a usb to do that properly & my RTX updated last night to the newest one & Yeah I downloaded the gaming centre from PC Specialist’s, The 970 has had the OS on it since Pc Specialist made & dispatched it to me, the Sabrent is what I added but i had no issue with my laptop when I installed both the new SSD or Ram at that time it has just started in January
 
FerrariVie

FerrariVie

Super Star
You need to start monitoring temperatures, maybe it's thermal throttling? You could have a fan malfunction or maybe disconnected the fan cable when cleaning/upgrading. If your laptop gets hot, it will throttle down to try and keep temps under control.

You can use tools like Hwinfo (sensor-only mode) since it records current, avg and max values from all PC sensors. Leave it open and take a screen of CPU and GPU temperatures and clocks at idle, then go play a game for a few minutes and alt+tab back to hwinfo to take more screens while playing, trying to be as fast as possible to not lose current values too much.
 
R

RETSION

Member
FerrariVie said:
You need to start monitoring temperatures, maybe it's thermal throttling? You could have a fan malfunction or maybe disconnected the fan cable when cleaning/upgrading. If your laptop gets hot, it will throttle down to try and keep temps under control.

You can use tools like Hwinfo (sensor-only mode) since it records current, avg and max values from all PC sensors. Leave it open and take a screen of CPU and GPU temperatures and clocks at idle, then go play a game for a few minutes and alt+tab back to hwinfo to take more screens while playing, trying to be as fast as possible to not lose current values too much.
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Thanks I have just done that test & my CPU started at 49°C & GPU at 50.8°C & few mins on Outriders CPU was at 91°C & GPU at 82.8°C
 
Scott

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
RETSION said:
Thanks I have just done that test & my CPU started at 49°C & GPU at 50.8°C & few mins on Outriders CPU was at 91°C & GPU at 82.8°C
Click to expand...

That's almost certainly thermal throttling. 50C at idle is a mile off what you would want. I'm surprised it doesn't hard shutdown on you when gaming much longer.

Good chance that it needs a re-paste, fan clean and check for operation at a minimum. Something like Thermal Grizzly would give good results. I would remove the additional RAM. Ideally you would want a matched set across all 4 slots if looking to upgrade. 24GB will net you no noticeable benefit over 16GB. I can only think of hassle using 3x 8 GB chips, where one of the slots of the channel aren't utilised, or 2x8gb and 2x4gb, where the pairs are uneven.
 
Scott

Scott

Behold The Ford Mondeo
Moderator
Oh... I would uninstall Bullguard if it wasn't removed during the reset. It's a known performance hog at times.
 
R

RETSION

Member
Scott said:
That's almost certainly thermal throttling. 50C at idle is a mile off what you would want. I'm surprised it doesn't hard shutdown on you when gaming much longer.

Good chance that it needs a re-paste, fan clean and check for operation at a minimum. Something like Thermal Grizzly would give good results. I would remove the additional RAM. Ideally you would want a matched set across all 4 slots if looking to upgrade. 24GB will net you no noticeable benefit over 16GB. I can only think of hassle using 3x 8 GB chips, where one of the slots of the channel aren't utilised, or 2x8gb and 2x4gb, where the pairs are uneven.
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I will get onto this it already should have artic mx4 on it but I will look into the Grizzly, I have also reverted the ram back to what it was to see if that changed anything before that test & it hadn’t but it shall stay at 16gb now thank you for the help figuring that all out.
 
FerrariVie

FerrariVie

Super Star
My guess is that it could have something to do with the GPU fan or paste. 50° is bad for a 45W CPU (but not too bad), but I think is nothing out of this world. My DTR has a 65W CPU and that is the idle temperature after around 30 minutes of usage, and I have indeed repasted with NT-H2. But I agree that in @RETSION 's case, it should be a bit below that... 40-45° I think?

However, your GPU is indeed quite hot at 51°, as the 2070 on my chassis stays at around 40-42° when in idle or light usage and never goes above 75° degrees no matter how many hours I've been playing. It's very likely that the 83° that you're seeing at high load is already with thermal throttle (hence why seeing the clocks was important), as the maximum allowed temperatures for GPUs are around 85°). So that might be indeed your problem.

On a laptop, since most heatpipes are shared between CPU and GPU, when one chip gets hot, the other one will also have its temperatures going up, but for you right now this might also helping the other side to cool down a bit.
 
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