New Intel/Nvidia PC for games like Battlefield 2042 at 1440p

MarVau

Member
I need a new PC main box. I think my graphics card (an overclocked Gigabyte GTX 980 G1) is dying on my current rig - getting lots of D3D lost device errors ( and ) when I play anything. It started happening infrequently in Ghost Recon Breakpoint and Sniper Elite 4 this past few weeks, a lot last week the first night my friend and I played Orcs Must Die! 3 (most crashes happened in menu as soon as game booted up, making it unplayable). It now happens frequently in Deep Rock Galactic, which I previously played for 380hrs without a single crash.

My gaming friends thought the fans might be dying on the card. On their advice I down-clocked the graphics card core-clock in MSI Afterburner, by up to 500MHz in increments, but it crashes with same frequency, so probably hardware failure. My PC is mostly over 10 years old anyway (2nd gen Intel i7-2600k) so it's had a good run. I bought this PC for Battlefield 3 and Planetside 2 from launch, that's how old it is. Only the graphics card, PSU, SSDs and peripherals are younger.

So I need a new PC - it's time - a bad time considering covid-caused logistics issues and graphics card prices, but I've had my money's worth out of my current gaming PC (that PC Specialist built) so I have no problems throwing money at them for another reliable gaming PC. I need this new PC built for me, and to be super-reliable and hassle free, because I have a degenerative connective tissue disorder that has made me very weak over the past decade (and weaker month by month), so I can't move a PC case any more, or be messing around inside it (no pity/sympathy please, just stating facts). This is why I haven't opened up my PC yet to check if the fans are dying on my GPU - I can't move the case without help.

Main purpose of this new PC will be co-op online gaming with friends, mainly through Steam, some PvP gaming (probably play Battlefield 2042 if I'm still capable enough) and sometimes solo gaming, all at the same time as using Discord/Teamspeak and streaming video/podcasts (YouTube and some Twitch mostly - I mainly stream other video/music like Netflix/Amazon/Disney+ through my FireCube to a different audio/video set-up nearby, though I may do that sometimes on this PC too). I don't stream my own gameplay much, except over Discord/Steam rarely for short periods (usually to show my friends a game I have that they're considering buying), so that's not a major factor.

I will also use this PC for work and charity stuff (nothing PC intensive, mostly involving copy-writing, proofreading, website management and image editing), some creative writing (in LibreOffice), for messing about with music creation (Ableton/ProTools for use with my keytar), and web stuff (mostly do that on my phone/tablet now).

I want Intel/Nvidia and not AMD because I had issues and regretted it when I once went AMD/ATI, even though it was ages ago. I won't be overly receptive to suggestions to go AMD (my friends have tried), but feel free to try. I've had many ASUS mobos, Samsung drives and Corsair RAM/PSUs before and I like to patron companies that have been reliable for me before, though Corsair have annoyed me with peripheral fragility before (I've had many many first year RMAs, until they stopped answering my emails): I dislike buying anything from them, but you're not giving me much choice on PSUs/RAM and they’ve mostly been ok for me from Corsair and not failed before their time, so whatever.

I've had problems with liquid CPU coolers before, so I want an air cooler, but a good one: My room gets hot in summer especially. I've had overheating issues before with PCs (and with my last three FireSticks, which is why I use a FireCube now). My room is above an Aga, the hot water boiler is through the wall behind the PC, and the fitted furniture gives me no choice on PC placement, but it's not my house and they won't let me fit aircon /sigh.

I don't want to mess around with any kind of overclocking this time, because of heat and reliability issues. I've had issues bedding-in overclocks before. It's just a hassle I don't want, as my technical knowledge is basic/self-taught and my technical ability/dexterity is even more rudimentary and getting weaker week by week. Reliability/dependability and raw power (so I don't have to upgrade this for years) is more important to me than saving a bit of money or squeezing out a little more performance.

I need this PC to be solid and not give me any problems, as I'm spending a reasonable proportion of my paltry savings on it. I want zero regrets. It might be the last gaming PC I ever buy. PC Specialist have built 3 PCs for me before, they've all been reliable, and I trust you more than any of the cowboys locally where I live (local shops and PC repair guys have been negligent, overpriced, uninformed, and in two cases utterly corrupt and criminal, to my friends and I over the past few decades).

I want M2 drives for speed. I want the OS installed on the 1Tb M2 drive (and productivity software will go there), the faster 2Tb M2 drive will be purely for gaming. My work, charity stuff and creative stuff will be cloud-saved, and/or on my RAIDed NAS, so I can access them elsewhere. I also have 3 existing (and fairly new) Samsung 1Tb SSDs in my current PC that I will get a friend to move over to this new rig for me eventually.

I want to go up to 1440p from 1080p gaming because I think it's time. I mostly game at 1920x1200 currently when it's supported (1080p when not) and my second monitor is 1080p. I want to go 1440p and not 4k because I can't justify the cost (or order/delivery delay) for a 3080 for 4k gaming. I'm on disability benefit and have to justify large outlays to our benefits office: I can probably justify a £2k PC purchase, a £3k one might be pushing it, plus I’m going to need some expensive surgery in the next few years and have a birthday party to pay for in 2 months.

I need two monitors so that on my second monitor I can see YouTube/Twitch and Teamspeak/Discord (and other messages). I also want to be able to switch which is the primary monitor occasionally, if I have to sit at a different angle because of pain/debility from my condition. I want IPS monitors with G-Sync and a high refresh rate as I care about framerates and response delays as my own dexterity gets worse. I want slightly larger than my current 24 inchers, but don’t have space for larger, so I'm planning to get two of these (feel free to suggest other monitors) the month before or after the PC:


I will also be connecting my Fnatic gaming keyboard, Steel Series mouse, and rarely various other gaming peripherals (Xbox360 pad, Thrustmaster joystick) via USB, plus a Yamaha Soundbar via optical, and a desk mic, plus a Steel Series gaming headset via USB, and my XP-Pen graphics tablet and Alesis Vortex 2 Wireless keytar (uses USB dongle) when needed. I always worry about not having enough SATA and USB ports and I like to have a lot of USB ports on the front (as I am not strong enough to move my PC, and it will be sitting against a wall) which has somewhat dictated which case to go for.

I didn't really want a case with LEDs on the front fans (or much LED at all), but eh, whatever - I can possibly manage to unplug the LEDs on the case fans if I am physically strong enough to take the side off this PC (and if the LEDs take power separately from the fans themselves like on my current rig).

Here is the build I am considering. I need you guys to suggest if there's anywhere you think I am overspending, any bottlenecks or alternatives I may not have considered (hence giving you the full lowdown on what I need this PC for, and my situation), and any other thoughts. Yes the PSU is maybe 100W larger than it needs to be (your website said that to me), but I like having surplus in case future graphics card upgrades need more power.


Case
COOLERMASTER MASTERCASE H500M GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
Intel® Core™ i7 Eight Core Processor i7-11700 (2.5GHz) 16MB Cache
Motherboard
ASUS® PRIME Z590-P (LGA1200, USB 3.2, PCIe 4.0) - ARGB Ready
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 3000MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
8GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3070 Ti - HDMI, DP
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 7000MB/R, 5000MB/W)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
1TB SAMSUNG 970 EVO PLUS M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 3500MB/R, 3300MB/W)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 750W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
PCS FrostFlow 150 Series High Performance CPU Cooler
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND
Sound Card
Creative Sound Blaster® Audigy™ FX OEM
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
WIRELESS 802.11N 300Mbps/2.4GHz PCI-E CARD
USB/Thunderbolt Options
2 PORT (2 x TYPE A) USB 3.1 PCI-E CARD + STANDARD USB PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00001]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Supplied on USB Drive
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
2 DAY DELIVERY TO CHANNEL ISLANDS (VAT EXCLUSIVE)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 16 to 19 working days
Price: £2,096.67 including VAT and Delivery

Unique URL to re-configure: https://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/saved-configurations/intel-z590-pc/V9DE62pS!F/


Thanks!
 

Martinr36

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR


 

TonyCarter

VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
I agree that the older AMD CPU/APUs had issues - but that was probably a decade ago, and Intel have just sat on their market dominance and stagnated - whereas AMD (as the underdog) has innovated and delivered faster, cooler, more power-efficient chips than ever.

Every reason you give for wanting to avoid AMD, is a reason I'd give for avoiding the latest Intel chips...heat, instability, broken microcode, power draw, etc.

I've got no problem avoiding AMD for GPUs as I like Nvidia better, but I'd feel a fraud for telling you to stick with Intel (and I'm just a customer BTW). The only issue with AMD I've heard is when paired with 4 sticks of 3600mhz RAM, and that was a motherboard issue fixed with a MB BIOS update. In my case, I didn't even need that...and my PC has been running faultlessly since I got it at Christmas.
 

Bigfoot

Grand Master
Pretty much everyone on here will advise you to go to AMD for the reasons highlighted by @Martinr36 but I am sure we will will help you with Intel, if you are really determined to go that way. You could also do with faster RAM, rearranged storage (you want your OS and programmes on the fastest drive), better cooling, an even bigger PSU (ideally RMX 850) and a better WiFi card (AX200). Also, sound on motherboards is good enough these days that you don’t need a separate sound card.
 
I want Intel/Nvidia and not AMD because I had issues and regretted it when I once went AMD/ATI, even though it was ages ago. I won't be overly receptive to suggestions to go AMD (my friends have tried), but feel free to try.

Hi, I have just ordered a new PC, and like you I thought I would avoid AMD. (although 100% sticking with Nvidia). Having read the advice here. I did some searching and what did it for me was the much lower power consumption due to the 7nm on the AMD. Less power means less heat, less noise, less stress. This article from Tom's hardware was the one that made up my mind.

I don't think AMD as a company is better than Intel. But I do think currently its the better option. Next year the roles may be reversed.

Whatever you go for, enjoy it!
 
Last edited:

Steveyg

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
I don't think AMD is better than Intel. But I do think currently its the better option. Next year the roles may be reversed.
AMD are currently better than Intel at the minute in all categories that matter mate. Performance being most important they have Intel stuffed then all the nice little things that come along like heat, power draw, etc they are also in the lead.
 
AMD are currently better than Intel at the minute in all categories that matter mate. Performance being most important they have Intel stuffed then all the nice little things that come along like heat, power draw, etc they are also in the lead.
My bad english (I've changed my post). I meant in terms of company rather than current offering!
 
@Grendelous , I suggest you read and watch the articles i posted above
At the moment Intel are rubbish. Yes, I did read and agree with all you have posted, it was your post(s) that made me switch from INTEL to AMD. But It might not have been clear that I did opt for the AMD.

All I was trying (badly it seems) to say, was that I'm hoping Intel will take notice and and aim to produce better products in the future. This will cause AMD to respond, and at the end of the day, us users will hopefully benefit :)
 

MarVau

Member
Pretty much everyone on here will advise you to go to AMD for the reasons highlighted by @Martinr36 but I am sure we will will help you with Intel, if you are really determined to go that way. You could also do with faster RAM, rearranged storage (you want your OS and programmes on the fastest drive), better cooling, an even bigger PSU (ideally RMX 850) and a better WiFi card (AX200). Also, sound on motherboards is good enough these days that you don’t need a separate sound card.
I was mainly going for the soundcard because of my keytar midi-controller.

Bigger PSU I can go for - I cut it down a bit when the website suggested my original choice (the 1000W one) was overkill.

As for the WiFi card, just wondering about that BT 5.0 thing at the end, because we don't have BT here - I just need an ethernet port really to connect up to my router. I always have faster and more reliable internet connections than most of my UK and European friends anyway, so they get me to host games a lot for co-op.

Ok so if I went for AMD for the CPU, which motherboard and CPU would you guys recommend if I didn't change the rest of the build?

My friends say few games are that CPU-bound these days and graphics card is everything. Then there are my friends that are telling me to just pick up a cheap old graphics card second hand and just soldier on with my existing build, as a lot of the games I play will be fine on old hardware until prices drop on graphics cards again (some of them, and some of the articles I read, say late 2023 at the earliest for that though). I only really play triple-A games at launch if they're PvP, and not played a PvP game in ages, because my gaming skills have dropped significantly.

I'm starting to feel like I may not get full use out of this PC if my condition gets a lot worse in the next year or two, so I'm wondering if I can cut corners - or more correctly pounds - off this build by going cheaper on the CPU. Considering some of my near-future expenses it's not off the table that I may just give up PC online gaming altogether now (seeing as prices are so high at the moment and this is a good jumping off point) at my own choice, before my condition rips PC gaming away from me in future anyway. Or just go for a cheaper repair option (second hand GPU) and soldier on with my old PC (though I've been feeling the last few years like the CPU could go at any time - it is 10 years old). Though maybe I'm just getting freaked out by all the research I'm doing and not really understanding exactly what I need anymore.

Though if I can cut a chunk of the cost off this build, that might change things.
 

Martinr36

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
Ok so here's a 1440p build that should do you nicely, I've dropped to the 3060 Ti to save you some money, this is a very capable card, by doing this it means we can create a nice base for future upgrades

Case
COOLERMASTER MASTERBOX TD500 MESH ARGB GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Six Core CPU (3.7GHz-4.6GHz/35MB CACHE/AM4)
Motherboard
ASUS® STRIX B550-F GAMING (DDR4, USB 3.2, 6Gb/s) - ARGB Ready!
Memory (RAM)
16GB Corsair VENGEANCE DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
8GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3060 Ti - HDMI, DP, LHR
1st Storage Drive
1TB SEAGATE BARRACUDA SATA-III 3.5" HDD, 6GB/s, 7200RPM, 64MB CACHE
1st M.2 SSD Drive
1TB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 7000MB/R, 5000MB/W)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
1TB INTEL® 670p M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD (up to 3500MB/sR | 2500MB/sW)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 750W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
CoolerMaster MasterLiquid Lite 240 High Performance Liquid Cooler
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
NOT REQUIRED
USB/Thunderbolt Options
MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 2 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00001]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Unlimited Downloads from Online Account
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Microsoft® Edge (Windows 10 Only)
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
STANDARD INSURED DELIVERY TO UK MAINLAND (MON-FRI)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 16 to 19 working days
Price: £1,750.00 including VAT and Delivery
Unique URL to re-configure: https://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/saved-configurations/amd-am4-gen3-pc/a4uQfgyDfp/
 

MarVau

Member
Ok so here's a 1440p build that should do you nicely, I've dropped to the 3060 Ti to save you some money, this is a very capable card, by doing this it means we can create a nice base for future upgrades

You took out the wireless network card completely, which I didn't realise I could do, and overlooked on my original build. My default assumption with my original build I put up was that it didn't matter anyway (so I left in the default option) - because all my gaming PCs have been cabled into my router (there's a lot of granite in our house so the signal scatter from the quartz makes WiFi work really poorly anyway - our tablets/phones get WiFi dropout all the time - so I always cable in my gaming PCs and main streaming devices). I should have mentioned that originally, but I was at word limit and had to cut stuff out anyway. Bluetooth might be useful rarely I guess, but I can deal without it.

I went back to the case I wanted (because more USB ports on front like I need) and 32Gb RAM and the 3070Ti (I've always gone for the x70 or x80 in Nvidia ranges when upgrading or in new builds, and I'm not dropping back on GPU when even I know most games care more about GPU now than CPU). I added in the Samsung M2s I wanted (and took out the HDD I don't need - I have some 1Tb Samsung SSDs I can put in this PC) - with a 1Tb Samsung 980 M2 drive to be the OS and non-gaming drive, so I can keep the 2Tb Samsung 980 M2 purely for games installs.

So a few minor tweaks aside it's basically my original build, but with the AMD CPU and mobo you picked, a faster M2 OS drive (on par with the fast 2Gb one I wanted), and only six cpu cores on the AMD instead of eight on the Intel (though I assume most games still don't utilise multi core well? This was partly why I was going Intel, other than my own outdated bias against AMD - I'd heard Intel's single core performance was still better).

Anyway here is where my thinking is currently at:

Case
COOLERMASTER MASTERCASE H500M GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Six Core CPU (3.7GHz-4.6GHz/35MB CACHE/AM4)
Motherboard
ASUS® STRIX B550-F GAMING (DDR4, USB 3.2, 6Gb/s) - ARGB Ready!
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
8GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3070 Ti - HDMI, DP
1st M.2 SSD Drive
1TB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 7000MB/R, 5000MB/W)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 7000MB/R, 5000MB/W)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 750W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
CoolerMaster MasterLiquid Lite 240 High Performance Liquid Cooler
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
NOT REQUIRED
USB/Thunderbolt Options
2 PORT (2 x TYPE A) USB 3.1 PCI-E CARD + STANDARD USB PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00001]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Supplied on USB Drive
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
2 DAY DELIVERY TO CHANNEL ISLANDS (VAT EXCLUSIVE)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 16 to 19 working days
Price: £2,077.50 including VAT and Delivery


And I have no idea why the link at the bottom is not working on the "post to forum" option now, but I've tried half a dozen times and it isn't putting a reconfigure link on my quote now.

Does this really still need liquid cooling if AMDs run cooler than Intels? I've had two liquid coolers leak on me (one of them early in my current PC's life) and really not fond of the idea. But if they are more reliable now maybe third time lucky.

The website is still telling me the PSU is overkill, but not sure if I should go up to 850W like Bigfoot recommended.

It's not really any cash saved, but honestly some of my upcoming expenses are so large a few hundred pounds either way won't make much difference - if I push the button on this purchase at all I just want no regrets across the board on the build.
 

Martinr36

MOST VALUED CONTRIBUTOR
That's looking pretty solid, AIO coolers are very reliable, these days and the coolant inside them is non conductive, so in the very rare case if it were to leak it would just make a mess, while talking about cooling you don't need the Arctic paste as the coolers have good paste pre-applied.

850W sounds a good plan, gives you plenty to play with for future upgrades
 

MarVau

Member
That's looking pretty solid, AIO coolers are very reliable, these days and the coolant inside them is non conductive, so in the very rare case if it were to leak it would just make a mess, while talking about cooling you don't need the Arctic paste as the coolers have good paste pre-applied.

850W sounds a good plan, gives you plenty to play with for future upgrades
It was more that I was worried about it leaking because of hassle, because I'm not strong enough to move the case myself, so minimising potential problems is important to me - and I've never had an air cooler fail on me except for one I had to replace a fan on, which is easy enough to do once I get someone to move the case for me.

Ok I went up to the 850W and dropped the thermal paste which puts the build as follows (still only saving a tenner over the original Intel, but whatever):

Case
COOLERMASTER MASTERCASE H500M GAMING CASE
Processor (CPU)
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X Six Core CPU (3.7GHz-4.6GHz/35MB CACHE/AM4)
Motherboard
ASUS® STRIX B550-F GAMING (DDR4, USB 3.2, 6Gb/s) - ARGB Ready!
Memory (RAM)
32GB Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 3200MHz (2 x 16GB)
Graphics Card
8GB NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 3070 Ti - HDMI, DP
1st M.2 SSD Drive
1TB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 7000MB/R, 5000MB/W)
1st M.2 SSD Drive
2TB SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2, PCIe NVMe (up to 7000MB/R, 5000MB/W)
Power Supply
CORSAIR 850W RMx SERIES™ MODULAR 80 PLUS® GOLD, ULTRA QUIET
Power Cable
1 x 1 Metre UK Power Cable (Kettle Lead)
Processor Cooling
CoolerMaster MasterLiquid Lite 240 High Performance Liquid Cooler
Thermal Paste
STANDARD THERMAL PASTE FOR SUFFICIENT COOLING
Sound Card
ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)
Network Card
10/100/1000 GIGABIT LAN PORT
Wireless Network Card
NOT REQUIRED
USB/Thunderbolt Options
2 PORT (2 x TYPE A) USB 3.1 PCI-E CARD + STANDARD USB PORTS
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64 Bit - inc. Single Licence [KUK-00001]
Operating System Language
United Kingdom - English Language
Windows Recovery Media
Windows 10 Multi-Language Recovery Image - Supplied on USB Drive
Office Software
FREE 30 Day Trial of Microsoft 365® (Operating System Required)
Anti-Virus
NO ANTI-VIRUS SOFTWARE
Browser
Google Chrome™
Warranty
3 Year Silver Warranty (1 Year Collect & Return, 1 Year Parts, 3 Year Labour)
Delivery
2 DAY DELIVERY TO CHANNEL ISLANDS (VAT EXCLUSIVE)
Build Time
Standard Build - Approximately 16 to 19 working days
Welcome Book
PCSpecialist Welcome Book - United Kingdom & Republic of Ireland

Price: £2,087.50 including VAT and Delivery

 
Top